Ice Climbing and Life in the U.S.

Happy New Year!!

There have been a lot of developments in my personal life and my work in the past handful of months since I last posted here. One that I’m most excited about is the launch of my company’s website, andesadventurevisuals.com. After 4 years of extensive exploration in Peru, I’m offering small-group-based photography workshops and expeditions. My workshops are designed for people who want to learn photography skills in a hands-on environment. I limit group sizes to 6 participants so that each person receives personalized feedback as we progress throughout the workshop. The expeditions I lead are guided photography tours where I bring participants to off-the-beaten-path locations around Peru to capture incredible images that are rarely seen online. I’ve poured hundreds, if not thousands, of hours into these experiences and encourage you to check them out!

I also had the pleasure of selling my prints for the first time …

Proofing images at the local printing shop in Sandy, Utah

2025/26 Ice Climbing Season

Now for the main topic — I'm winding back the clock to reflect on this past winter's ice climbing season and share what I've been up to lately before I fully shift my focus to the high season in Peru.

In November of last year, a couple of days after my arrival to the U.S., I participated in a NOLS Wilderness First Responder course for the first time. For years, I had debated whether it was worth taking one of these courses, especially considering that 14 year old Matt was a Boy Scout who almost became an Eagle Scout. Well, it turns out that 15 years later I was due for a refresher. After completing the WFR, I was 10x more competent and confident that I could manage a wilderness emergency.

After the course I hopped over to my hometown in the Chicago suburbs to visit family that I hadn't seen in ten months. Being away from my family for so much time between visits has taught me to slow down, be present, and cherish every moment that I share with them. I can't imagine that some people, immigrants in the U.S. come to mind, go years or even decades without seeing their families. I spent Thanksgiving with my family for the first time in nearly 5 years. My dad's wild rice dish, brother-in-law's scalloped potatoes, and glazed turkey all reminded me of why it is my favorite American holiday.

A few days after, I packed up and started the 28-hour drive to Salt Lake, then to Bozeman, to commence my winter in the U.S.

Ice Climbing Goals

Going into the ice season, my goal was to climb at least 30 days and to lead at least one pitch of WI4. I didn't climb for 30 days, partly due to an injury to my hand that took a week to heal and then a sickness that knocked me out for my final week in Bozeman, but I did successfully lead a couple of WI4s (although they felt like they were climbed more like WI3s).

I figured if I improved my technique enough to climb WI4s, then it would open up a lot of routes that I'm planning to attempt in Peru this year.

Killer Pillar

Craig cruising up KP on top rope, making it look easy

Dane, Craig, and I went to Champagne Sherbert and Killer Pillar on the first day of the season. I pumped out quick on Champagne Sherbert and had nothing left in the tank for KP. I only made it about 1/4 of the way up on top rope on KP. When I was home in Chicago, I trained by doing 10 minutes of tool hangs in my parents' garages almost every single day for two weeks. I was genuinely surprised to find that it was not sufficient enough.

Favorite Climbs of the Season

The Matrix

Craig convinced me I could lead it. He was right! It was pretty early in the season before things started to fatten up, but the lower pillar was just thick enough to stem off onto the rock to the right and surmount with a couple of lengths of climbing. The top-out reminded me of a lot of Champagne slots. Delicate, but secure if you trust your tools.

Responsible Family Men

My favorite climb of the year was RFM on Christmas day with Craig. It was a blue bird day, warm temps, and the ice was in hero condition. The views of Hyalite canyon from the base of RFM were second to none. What an incredible venue for an ice climb in all-time conditions.

Rock and Pick Hoar Show

Probably an overlooked climb because of it's icer neighbor Horsetail Falls, this was a fun and sporty climb. Ice filled slot features have become some of my favorite style of ice climbs.

Bozeman Ice Festival & WYO Ice Festival

For the second year in a row I shot photos and video for the Bozeman Ice Festival in Hyalite Canyon, Montana, and the Wyoming (WYO) Ice Festival in Cody, Wyoming.

Andres Marin giving instruction at 101 clinic during the Bozeman Ice Festival

Both festivals suffered from a record-warm winter, like most of the West. Thankfully, the ice held together just enough for clinics to run, unlike the misfortune of the Ouray Ice Festival, which made the most of their situation but had to adapt all of its clinics to dry tooling.

One of my favorite aspects of these festivals is getting together with the vibrant communities of people who share a common interest in ice climbing. Beginners and experts alike come from all over the U.S. to share the thrill of ascending frozen water in the mountains … Pretty cool if you ask me! If you've ever wanted to try out ice climbing but have no clue where to start, then I highly recommend participating in a couple of clinics at either one of these ice climbing festivals.

Beginner and intermediate clinics at the WYO Ice Festival in Cody, Wyoming

What’s Next

It was a privilege to make Bozeman my winter home base for the second year in a row. I think if I lived in the U.S. full-time, it would be a top contender for my permanent residence because of my awesome community of friends and the year-round outdoor recreation opportunities.

In early February I said goodbye to friends and family and flew back to Peru. I found a quiet home for rent in Urubamba, which I call home now all of the year. It's been a long time since I've settled down in one place. So to finally know that Urubamba will be my central place for the next 5+ years is a relief. Don't get me wrong, I love the nomad life, but there is something about coming home to my own bed and living in the same home for more than 6 months at a time that I've missed.

At the time of writing this, I still haven't gotten on any mountains in Peru. The rainy season doesn't seem like it wants to stop yet, and I hope that the season changes by mid-April. My list of projects here grows every day. It includes first ascents, mixed climbs, ridge climbs, second ascents on big faces, low 5000-meter mountains, and some solo objectives.

If you find my adventures remotely interesting, follow along by joining my newsletter, reading my blog, and watching the YouTube videos that I make for every one of my new adventures.

Thanks for reading and until next time!